Blue Stone, you take your pleasure seriously!
Cherry Oak storage box. 🙂
Im just gonna keep mine in my little box with lube and gloves. I can touch em up if need be, and i doubt they will need it too much anyway.
Hi ALL!
Recieved my supplies yesterday and went for the Progasm first, it has the kind of dull finish!
Spent about a half hour on it, test drove it and it WAS more mobile! I plan to do another half hour or so on it to see if I can make it really move!
Let you know!
Later, Hlaser
Just received my progasm! Wow, can't wait to try it.
I gave it 5 minutes with 2000 grit wet/dry paper then turned the paper over and buffed it with the back of the sheet (itself a mild abrasive). I then buffed the head with some car paint type polish (t-cut in the uk) to get a nice gloss and washed it again (not saying this was right but I'm happy with the results).
I read the post by B Mayfield above about the idea of a matt finish being better at retaining lube but I have to say that's not my personal experience and have often felt a bit glued to my other models after a while but since buffing them last week they move great and give better feelings (and a few nice Os too 🙂
Anyhoo looking forward to the first test drive!
Very interesting comments about buffing up the massagers. I enquired about this from HIH and they informed me that the matte finish is by design to help hold the lubricant. I had tried polishing my massager, finishing off with sodium bicarbonate to get a super high gloss. It feels sumptuously smooth at first, but after a short time I found that the lubricant does indeed seep away.
Someone mentioned Boy Butter, but I'm a bit concerned about its ingredients, especially for use in the rear end.
The absolute last word for the most blissful masturbation experience is Aura Cacia Exotic Massage Butter. Apply it liberally from your thighs to your nipples and enjoy your penis and your whole body for hours on end of sheer ecstasy.
Although the label says external use only, Aura Cacia Exotic Massage Butter has all natural ingredients and is therefore probably safe to use with the Aneros also.
Thanks for this thread BlueStone, I have now polished my Helix and Progasm, but not the necks (thanks again!).
Not having access (read 'couldn't be arsed, I wanted to get started right away') to more specialised abrasives I went with 2 nail buffers, the multi grade type on a soft polystyrene (styrofoam in the US) block. I removed the coarse nail-edge side before I started. (I didn't want a careless slip to undo all my hard work.) I sliced the finest side with 1/4" of foam from one of the blocks to get around the curves.
By the time I'd finished ('finished', lol, it's an ongoing project...) I got involuntaries and a half mast hard-on just from handling the Progasm!
(The strangest thing, with the head of the Progasm being so glans-like I suddenly got an urge to suck on it. So I did. A real deep throat job right down to the t-bar and worked my soft-palate, back of throat and tongue around the head. Oh, well, I've always known I'm bi-sexual. I've just never done anything about it...)
Wow! What a difference. In use the Progasm now dances around like a belly-dancer on speed and its new responsiveness really drives me wild. I had, actually, given it a rest for a week but since polishing it I alternate it with the Helix during every session. (read nightly, lol)
Maybe Aneros should offer the gloss finish for a (small!!) premium.
WRT B Mayfield's observation that the texture is 'designed in' to retain lubricant, all I can say is that it's a good job automotive engineers don't subscribe to the same theory. "Yes Sir, this new (insert brand name here) SUV has specially textured crankshaft journals and shell bearings better to retain lubricant under load..."
No disrespect BM, I note that you don't seem to subscribe to the theory yourself.
I haven't removed the K tab from the Progasm, nor will I. Its contact sends shivers, tingles and a charge up my spine and though to my abdomen as soon as I put it in, and is one of the many things that makes a Progasm experience so different from that of a Helix (my only other Aneros). I have removed all traces of the tab that extends above the tab bar of the Progasm. No difference in action but improves the lines no end and makes it look somehow leaner & more 'purposeful'. I have, however, removed the curly handle from the Helix, and I'm glad I did. With an extra gentle push the Helix changes angle inside and squeezes the prostate against the P-tab in a different, electrifying way.
Cherry-wood polyurethane-polished box? I'd thought more along the lines of a discreet (gunmetal or white? White I think, like half a 12" Apple iBook) snap close case with custom cut-outs like for a photographer's cameras and lenses or a sniper's break-down rifle. 😉 In the meantime I use drawstring sunglasses pouches to keep them protected and clean. They'll suffice 'cos I'm not likely to do the above any time soon.
Happy sessions everyone,
O W
Thanks for this thread BlueStone, I have now polished my Helix and Progasm, but not the necks (thanks again!).
Not having access (read 'couldn't be arsed, I wanted to get started right away') to more specialised abrasives I went with 2 nail buffers, the multi grade type on a soft polystyrene (styrofoam in the US) block. I removed the coarse nail-edge side before I started. (I didn't want a careless slip to undo all my hard work.) I sliced the finest side with 1/4" of foam from one of the blocks to get around the curves.
By the time I'd finished ('finished', lol, it's an ongoing project...) I got involuntaries and a half mast hard-on just from handling the Progasm!(The strangest thing, with the head of the Progasm being so glans-like I suddenly got an urge to suck on it. So I did. A real deep throat job right down to the t-bar and worked my soft-palate, back of throat and tongue around the head. Oh, well, I've always known I'm bi-sexual. I've just never done anything about it...)
Wow! What a difference. In use the Progasm now dances around like a belly-dancer on speed and its new responsiveness really drives me wild. I had, actually, given it a rest for a week but since polishing it I alternate it with the Helix during every session. (read nightly, lol)
Maybe Aneros should offer the gloss finish for a (small!!) premium.WRT B Mayfield's observation that the texture is 'designed in' to retain lubricant, all I can say is that it's a good job automotive engineers don't subscribe to the same theory. "Yes Sir, this new (insert brand name here) SUV has specially textured crankshaft journals and shell bearings better to retain lubricant under load..."
No disrespect BM, I note that you don't seem to subscribe to the theory yourself.I haven't removed the K tab from the Progasm, nor will I. Its contact sends shivers, tingles and a charge up my spine and though to my abdomen as soon as I put it in, and is one of the many things that makes a Progasm experience so different from that of a Helix (my only other Aneros). I have removed all traces of the tab that extends above the tab bar of the Progasm. No difference in action but improves the lines no end and makes it look somehow leaner & more 'purposeful'. I have, however, removed the curly handle from the Helix, and I'm glad I did. With an extra gentle push the Helix changes angle inside and squeezes the prostate against the P-tab in a different, electrifying way.
Cherry-wood polyurethane-polished box? I'd thought more along the lines of a discreet (gunmetal or white? White I think, like half a 12" Apple iBook) snap close case with custom cut-outs like for a photographer's cameras and lenses or a sniper's break-down rifle. 😉 In the meantime I use drawstring sunglasses pouches to keep them protected and clean. They'll suffice 'cos I'm not likely to do the above any time soon.
Happy sessions everyone,
O W
Old Wolf,
You got it right, I've had some real questions about the concept of the matte surface and lubrication for some time now. Just to recap, the manufacturer's theory is that a smooth surface enables much of the lubrication to be "squeegied" off by the anal sphincter as the device passes into the rectum, leaving much of the lubrication outside rather than in. As the idea goes, a slightly more textured or matte surface allows more to remain.
I had a conversation about 6 weeks ago now with them about this very issue. What I told them at the time is that IF this was ever true it has been rendered moot by the fact that most Aneros users are prelubricating these days! With prelubrication the "squeegie effect" (whatever it's role was) is no longer a factor. Once inside (with prelube) the smoother the unit is the more responsive it is.
My understanding is that this matte finish is actually added after the unit is molded, and at some additional cost! I'm trying to get them to consider foregoing this extra step. I think this would provide a real improvement to the product. It should come as no surprise that the design of the Aneros is an evolving process, involving continuing reseach and user feedback as well. Hopefully this will show up in some of the newer devices. Until then, it is fairly easy to make this modification, with a little sanding.
As an aside, strange as it may sound, when I make a modification like this, it makes the unit a little more special to me, in that it's really becomes a custom device, one that I've had some small part in crafting.
So shine up your Aneros guys!
BF Mayfield
Well, "easy" depends on individual skill and available time plus the cost of finishing materials. I have worked with micro-mesh during my training as an Airframe & Powerplant technician but it is expensive and time consuming and probably over-kill for this purpose.
I would definitely prefer a gloss finish over matte and I have seen mention of this under other topics as well.
And, of course, if the next batch can be done in gloss and maybe less expense; I would certainly be interested to know when it will be available. Whether it be the next batch or one unit polished to order for those of us who want it.
I have done a minor modification to my existing progasm. I found that the K-tab was a little to far aft for my comfort and, being closer to the tip than the P-tab, was actually limiting P-tab pressure.
Rather than remove the K-tab; I used a heat source on this thermo-set polymer to carefully move the K-tab slightly forward and down so it is now equal with the P-tab.
Doing any heat processes on these devices can be tricky. I used to use a heat gun which is not a very precise heat source and I always ended up with imperfections and a rough surface that had to be cleaned and refinished.
This time I tried using a Bunsen burner which worked quite well.
There is a very close margin of error when working with this type of polymer. At exactly the right temperature it will become clear and easily pliable but at only a slightly higher temperature it will become liquid. And, of course, the hazard of any open flame is actual combustion of the polymer.
The interesting thing is, after making this modification the matte finish is now gone from that part of the K-tab leaving a glossy finish.
I wonder if polishing of the entire unit might be achieved with the right application of heat?
Scorch.
}:>
Scorch,
You are correct "easy" is a relative term. But I accomplished this in fairly short order by using wet dry 600 grit sand paper that I picked up at Home Depot and 2000 and 3000 grit sand papers which I found at an auto body shop (they sold me a couple of sheets of each). The latter are materials commonly used for sanding scratches from "clear coat" paint. In terms of the time invested, it took me about a half an hour to bring my Eupho up to a nice luster and about an hour to do the same for the Progasm. All and all I probably spent about twelve bucks.
Granted it required some effort on my part to accomplish this, but there was certainly no special skill needed, and I found this time well spent. Besides, as I stated before I viewed the process as a labor of lust!
I'm aware that some other users have posted on using the Micro Mesh that you had mentioned, taking it all the way to 12, 000. Personally, I found the 3000 more than adequate and 2000 would have probably been fine by itself....at least for my purposes.
Just for reference, here's a link for a company that sells sand paper up to 2000 grit at 67 cents per 9 X 5.5" sheet:
http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro_Finishing_Papers.html
They also carry Micro Mesh packs that go up 12,000 for $7.98
With regard to the topic of Aneros modification through the use of an open flame , what your comments make very clear is that special skill IS required for such endeavors. In the past I modified my MGX and MGX Classic by this method. As you know, all of the previous generation Aneros products were made of a different material (acetal) and it too was very tricky to work with. (I destroyed one of the devices in the process). Frankly, at this point I would strongly advise people against the use of open flame . I just don't think it's safe. For bending and reshaping, a heat gun is far preferable (but even then, a great deal of caution must be observed).
BF Mayfield
p.s. on possible changes in the manufacturing process, if something develops with that, I will post on it as soon as I hear about it.
It actually was pretty easy. I used the bunsen burner to carefully give the progasm a quick flame 'bath'. This resulted in a desirable and interesting effect. But, of course, must be done very carefully to avoid injury or damage to the product.
The over-all surface now has a shiny gloss with a slight texture. (As if there are small remnants of the matte finish.)
This only took a couple minutes to accomplish.
And yes, I strongly aggree with B. Mayfield. Safety is a serious issue and should always be of highest priority!
You must be confident of what you do with your tools or find somebody who is.
A bunsen burner is a very specific tool with a highly controllable flame. And should not to be compared to something like the much larger burner of a kitchen range or much higher concentrated temperature of a common propane torch. And should always be used away from combustible surfaces. Plus, with any material of this type, a chemical fire extinguisher should always be at hand.
Considering the mass and energy content of even just a few ounces of prostate stimulator FUEL that could be released; one should always be aware of a possible run-away combustion process which can result in heavy chemical gas emissions, severe burns, or even a larger fire if not maintained under completely controlled conditions.
IE: Somebody panics, tries to bat the burning molten polymer/fuel with their hands, resulting in severe burns and spreading of the combustion. So; use your head or you might lose it!
And, NO, water is NOT a chemical fire extinguisher! It will likely add fuel to the fire and spread it out more.
Scorch.
}:>
My understanding is that this matte finish is actually added after the unit is molded, and at some additional cost!
Sob!
And there was me suggesting a small premium to have them polished 'in house'.
O W
I ordered the Stewart McDonald buffing materials and polished my Helix. Am I impressed. Maybe there was a placebo effect, but I was screaming within 5 minutes.
I am reluctant to use the same treatment on my eupho and progasm. As it is they tend to pop out when I relax my muscles. Any thoughts?
(this post was edited 2007-04-07 13:12:33)
... I can't wait to get the other materials to get a "glass like" finish.
Hmmm... "glass-like" finish? That gives me an idea. Maybe the Aneros should just be made of glass. There are lots of dildos made of glass. I suppose the thin extensions and tabs might be susceptible to breaking (ouch!). Maybe a material like acrylic which is as smooth as glass but stronger than glass would be a good idea. I think a clear model would be kinda erotic looking too. What do you guys think?
Does anyone have regular contact with Aneros to pass that idea along?
Hey megabyteme,
I belive support monitors this forum and will occasionally chime in. I am sure your idea got to the right people.
Edit:
OK, I'm going totally overboard here, but...I ordered the "Micro-Mesh Soft Touch Finishing Pads" from the link below - http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Finishing_supplies/Abrasives,_polishes,_buffers/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html
Link has changed, new link http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Sanding_Tools_and_Supplies/Micro-Mesh_Soft_Touch_Finishing_Pads.html
I polished my Helix tonight using some unconventional materials. Not having fine emery paper or nail buffs I looked around in the household what could be used, I decided to try the stainless steel cleaner/polisher (Spring Inox Cleaner) which contains abrasives which I use to keep the stainless steel kitchenware in tip top appearance. As a polishing cloth I used a peace of jeans material. Ten minutes later the helix was polished and did not take much effort.
The polishing was done dry, that is no water added, just the paste which dried quickly in the cloth. From an engineering point of view, heat is generated when polishing, and on a microscopic level this heat either melts or softens the surface irregularities which then quickly get carried away or get moulded into a polished surface. When polishing soft thermo-plastics one need not follow the methods of polishing hard materials as metals or gem stones.
i just cut the k tab off my pro and its made a huge difference thanks for the advice