Moderate/Extreme Modifications to Your Aneros?

I have a Progasm classic and a Progasm ice, both of which have the K-tab removed because the K-tab only provided pain for me. Recently I also removed the P-tab from the classic. I like the feeling of this since the P-tab seemed overbearing most of the time. 

I'm thinking about putting the Peridise in a lathe and cutting some ribs, MGX style, also reducing the 18mm O.D. down to 16mm since the smallest unit is no longer available.

@busdrvr sounds like you need to get a piece of stainless steel and go to turning a really nice piece if you have access to a metal lathe!

@b-mayfield used to modify his Aneros in the early days of his use, I believe more commonly by adjusting the P-tabs so it would hit differently. There were a few others that did modifications around <20 years ago, however I'm not sure of many that modify now given the range of devices available for use.

@poseidon

To every dog his bone, but it seems to me Aneros has the prostate massager device designs down to an art now. I bobbed the tail off my old MGX and Helix, but I wouldn't mess with any of the newer devices on the tabs, but this sounds interesting! I like the ribs on the MGX also, and that could be a neat addition to other devices. What would a maximus feel like with hand worked and polished ripples at the base? 

Posted by: @busdrvr

I'm thinking about putting the Peridise in a lathe and cutting some ribs, MGX style,

Do you have a good idea for how to hold the tapered shapes in the lathe? Curious what kind of lathe you're talking about. 

I'm not sure how thick the plastic is on those devices,  but I don't think they are solid.  If they are moulded, they likely shot nitrogen up through the device to cool and set the plastic after it is injected into the mold. This process leaves a pocket inside the newly moulded plastic device. You are talking about taking 1mm or .040 inches off all the way around that thing, there is a danger of breaking into the cavity inside the device.  I'd proceed with caution and make sure that it was running very true before making any cuts. Good luck!

Hum, I've heard Aneros staff mention that there may be small air pockets/minor imperfections inside the material, but I do believe they are solid.  Hopefully Aneros can speak to that.

Looking to do something not too crazy like cutting ribs on a Peridise; ribs on a Maximus could be awesome too!  

I'm surprised there has not been more interest in modifications like this from more advance Aneros users over the years.   Like many users I have most of the models offered and I like them all, some more than others, but the idea of a custom ribbed shaft and polished mirror finish sounds good too.  Might be a good suggestion for Aneros to consider;  something that would not require a complete design change, just some small additions.

FWIW I polish all my Aneros to a high gloss surface; never modified the tails (P or K tabs) on any of them. 

No idea how I would hold the device in the lathe.  looking for ideas there.  It's a small 3 jaw lathe, nothing special, but better than a hand held drill.

Keep the ideas coming!

Posted by: @busdrvr

Hum, I've heard Aneros staff mention that there may be small air pockets/minor imperfections inside the material, but I do believe they are solid.

If you run into an air bubble while turning, you'll get a tiny crater with a sharp edge. Then you'll have to turn down further, likely encountering more bubbles. At the very least, this will probably force you to modify your intended design, and since the Peridise are already so small in diamter, there is only so much material to remove, not a lot of wiggle room here. 

Holding a Peridise in a 3 jack chuck will be a challenge, I feel you would have to make a jig to hold it, then hold that in the chuck. Maybe a piece of round stock with a slot in it, then some threaded holes to put set screws to lock it in, but I could see this ending badly.  I have no idea how straight the Peridise are, some wobble is very likely.  At this point getting Delrin rod and turning something from scratch starts to make a lot of sense to me. 

Posted by: @busdrvr

I'm surprised there has not been more interest in modifications like this from more advance Aneros users over the years.

Tiny community, in a given group there is only a given % of tinkerers.

Lots of other reasons I can think of, the devices are relatively expensive and people don't want to risk ruining them, also there's the risk of you modification making the performance worse. I'm sure most people are also very happy with how their toys work "factory stock" and it just doesn't cross their mind to do modifications. And to top it all, lots of users really like the Syn models and I don't see any way to modify those. 

If you were using a 4 jaw chuck or even an adjustable 3 jaw, I might have a suggestion using a plaster of Paris like product. 

Posted by: @busdrvr

Keep the ideas coming!

 

I once read here about a mod to the paridise models.

Heated the narrow area nearest the tip and slightly bent the tip to increase contact pressure on the prostate.   Also bent 'T' opposite way to balance the contact there. You can choose the new angle to suit.

I did this to my larger paridise and like the extra feelings.

YMMV

Enjoy

I had two classic Progasms.  One the back tab broke off.  I decided to shave the thing down and actually use it.  The movement is a bit more, so the P Tab was a bit uncomfortable, and I had to make a extra cover for it.  I use it exclusively, though I don't get much of the movement ever since I am messing with contractions.

@busdrvr if your goal is to make a smaller Peridise I'd suggest that you just get the 16mm size from High Island Health.  It will cost a lot more than the Peridise set but at least you'll have something made the way it was designed.  Ultimately your choice though.

I have a Helix V and bend the K tab careful (with a heatgun).

The K tab caused pain, but after the modification no more.

Nah, I think their products have been perfect as is.

My first Aneros was the Helix Classic, and it never really felt comfortable at all. Even though I learned how to rewire with it, padding the tabs got old and I was never able to get used to its configuration. The Eupho Trident was definitely better, but could still be somewhat annoying. The old style Progasm Ice, with its pachinko ball tabs were really quite uncomfortable.

I’d read that some had used Sugru modeling compound with modifications. After some trial and error, I came up with something that worked extremely well on the Helix. I refined the design a bit more with the Eupho, which felt even better. I tried a third design for the Progasm, with more rounded and pronounced bumps, but I pushed the idea too far as extended use gets to be uncomfortable. I'm going to change it to the 2.0 version one of these days and do the same with my larger size Peridise.

Although I haven’t yet tried some of the newer Aneros configurations, I can’t imagine that they could ever feel better than my modified tools. 

https://imgur.com/M0wzpDG

@o-brave-new-world

Interesting mods ! So in your experience, the P-Tab does not add anything to the experience ? I cut the tails of my devices pretty early, but left the P-tabs for some pivoting action. Now I'm wondering if I should take things further and try this. There's a way to cut the tab so it will be easy to splint it back on so I'm not too worried about ruining anything... 

Can you tell us more about how the toys react without the P-Tab ? 

Posted by: @p38

I once read here about a mod to the paridise models.

Heated the narrow area nearest the tip and slightly bent the tip to increase contact pressure on the prostate.   Also bent 'T' opposite way to balance the contact there. You can choose the new angle to suit.

I did this to my larger paridise and like the extra feelings.

YMMV

Enjoy

 

 

This sounds precisely like what I'm after.  I have the original Helix and a Helix Trident.  The original applies just a bit more prostate pressure, and if you hold them together you can see the tip is angled forward just a bit more. 

So, I'm up for a mod.  How did you heat it, how hot? 

Posted by: @zentai

@o-brave-new-world

Interesting mods ! So in your experience, the P-Tab does not add anything to the experience ? I cut the tails of my devices pretty early, but left the P-tabs for some pivoting action. Now I'm wondering if I should take things further and try this. There's a way to cut the tab so it will be easy to splint it back on so I'm not too worried about ruining anything... 

Can you tell us more about how the toys react without the P-Tab ? 

 

The stock tabs on all my devices had always been irritating. There had never been a p-tab pivoting action that added a bit of pleasure that I could tell. The k-tab also did nothing. After comparing the modified Helix to my Trident Eupho and Classic Progasm there was no going back.

The shorter bumps on my modified devices press on the immediate front and rear anal areas, 'o'zones I'm quite fond of (which I was able to acquire in large part with my bidet - a rewiring activity highly worth pursuing, by the way.)  Although I'm a big fan of the perineum and coccyx area, the stock tabs weren't even close to finding those sweet spots.

Pros: 
- way more comfortable, being able to use with long extended use.
- allows for really exquisite subtle movement, like amazing chair bumping and rocking.
- pinpoint targets my preferred spots, while freeing up the perineum and coccyx for other manipulations.

Cons: 
- kind of a hassle to work with Sugru in getting the bump final perfect before it starts to harden.
- can't use my favorite silicone lube, as I believe it would most likely degrade the modeling compound. 
- the bumps can become loose, requiring you to construct a new one. This has only happened twice over many sessions.

@o-brave-new-world

Thanks!

Like you, I always had some issues with the front tab and I used various methods to make it softer (talking about the Classics here, I'm sure the Tridents are better in this regard). So I decided to go ahead and do it to my Helix, I used Sculpey modeling clay to add a small bit to the already removed handle, and I kept most of the P-tab arm and molded over this so the curve would follow my perineum. These are slip-on inserts so I just made them extra-tight before baking them and it seems to work fine for now, I only tried one session. I feel it made the Helix a bit more responsive but I need more testing to really know. 

I think most of your "cons" could be fixed by using a different medium. Milliput epoxy putty gives you hours of molding time, it's also *never* coming off so you have to be sure of you design, and it won't react with anything. It could be used to make slip on inserts, too... Lots of options out there. 

@zentai

Posted by: @zentai

Milliput epoxy putty gives you hours of molding time, it's also *never* coming off so you have to be sure of you design, and it won't react with anything.

Damn lol I’ve fixed leaking copper pipe with this stuff,it’s pretty versatile it seems 😉

@helghast

A modelist friend gave half a box to me to play with, I'm pretty sure he would not guess this is the kind of things I would use it for, hehe. I could say I'm making some sculptures  ? 

@zentai Well. You are sculpting pleasure hehehe 😉