dented njoy wand

Oh no, that is one thing I fear with any of my Njoy products is dropping them. If it is a genuine Njoy product (based on the price you paid it better be) it is solid stainless steel and has no coating or chrome plating, it is polished to that mirror finish. If it was me I would start by placing a message to Njoy just for the sake of doing it and talk to them. If they say no way, than to fix the damage I would get a kit for polishing guitar frets like this that has different grits to remove the gouge and blend in     ( https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/StewMac_Tool_Sets/Rough_Fret_Smooth_and_Shine_Set.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=2020-03-gp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIlPDjnqy-6AIVmInICh1uRw5MEAYYASABEgIjEPD_BwE )

than get a cotton flap ( https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-Metal-Buffing-Kit-7-Piece-A10BK72/301848645 ) that goes into a hand drill with the polishing sticks to really give it that shine back.

Links given are for illustration purposes. You should be able to source local to your country

@somebody Good idea, I will write the company as well. I posted here hoping someone had experience with this, and a quick fix. One thing I have noticed on this forum is an abondance of people who know what they are talking about when it comes to tools. 

Your advice sounds great but... the guitar fret polish kit is expensive (40 euros online). I fortunately know many acoustic guitarists, being a professional musician myself. But I only know one with whom I am close enough to ask to use his fret polishing kit to polish a sex toy 🙂 I will ask him. If he doesnt have a kit (he relies on others to fix his instruments) I will buy one and gift it to him (with full disclosure, he will have a laugh).

Otherwise, any other ideas? Is there no ultra fine grade sand paper that would do the trick? or would I ruin the toy.

Perhaps use a knife sharpening whetstone with a fine grit?

Oh, you dented it by dropping it.  I was gonna say, you've got some powerful butt muscles if you can dent stainless steel!

Posted by: @divine_o

Otherwise, any other ideas? Is there no ultra fine grade sand paper that would do the trick? or would I ruin the toy.

You certainly can use sandpaper if you want to go that way. I don't think you can ruin it any more than it currently is unless you don't do a complete job. I will say this, it is going to be a  very slow arduous process no matter how you proceed. expect a few days work.

I would start w/ 600 grit in a very small area just on the scar and a bit around it till the damage is almost gone. than bump up to 800 grit making the working area larger to blend in. sand till you can't see or feel the original damage and you no longer see the marks from the 600 grit. move up to 1000 grit expanding area than 1600 grit. now move to a wet sand using 2000 grit and if you can find it 3000 or greater also wet. at this point you should be sanding the entire ball. once you are happy move onto the polishing flapper. Voila, all fixed.

Posted by: @somebody

Posted by: @divine_o

Otherwise, any other ideas? Is there no ultra fine grade sand paper that would do the trick? or would I ruin the toy.

You certainly can use sandpaper if you want to go that way. I don't think you can ruin it any more than it currently is unless you don't do a complete job. I will say this, it is going to be a  very slow arduous process no matter how you proceed. expect a few days work.

I would start w/ 600 grit in a very small area just on the scar and a bit around it till the damage is almost gone. than bump up to 800 grit making the working area larger to blend in. sand till you can't see or feel the original damage and you no longer see the marks from the 600 grit. move up to 1000 grit expanding area than 1600 grit. now move to a wet sand using 2000 grit and if you can find it 3000 or greater also wet. at this point you should be sanding the entire ball. once you are happy move onto the polishing flapper. Voila, all fixed.

Good advice... I'd like to add that all of the sandpaper grits should be the "wet or dry" type.  Use them with water, it keeps the sanding grit from getting clogged up.  A polishing kit made for restoring car headlights would work too, like this one on Amazon...

https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Taillights-Restoration-High-Precision-Waterproof/dp/B07KP8J7Q2/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=headlight+polishing+kit&qid=1585605122&sr=8-7

@divine_o If it's pure stainless, I think you'd be safe smoothing it out with fine sandpaper or steel wool.

Lastly, get some polishing compound. Something in the U.S. called "Mother's Mag and Aluminum Polish" works wonders on aluminum wheels on show cars and chrome on motorcycles. Something similar should get it back to a mirror finish.

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If it has the NJOY logo laser etched on the inner radius, I wouldn't be hesitant to smooth out the worst of the roughness with a jewelers file (which should be readily available at any hardware store) and then follow up with an abrasive polishing compound applied with a soft cotton cloth. Most automotive stores sell polishing compound in a variety of different grits (bigger number is less aggressive). You can speed the process up with power tools but elbow grease and determination will suffice. OTOH just judging from the picture- I wouldn't worry about self injury given adequate lubrication. Best of luck

There we go, that was the abundance of ideas that I needed to find the cheapest and most efficient solution... haven’t decided yet but it looks like it will be just fine. @10dollarbet I agree with you that it would probably be fine with lots of lube (as the center logo is slightly abrasive, less so, but slightly, and it doesn’t bother me), but I would rather not risk hurting myself in the least. I don’t want to be that guy who goes to the hospital with an infection and has to explain that he was to lazy to polish his sextoy. So thank you, community!